WEAVING
There are many reasons dogs exit the poles prematurely near the end of the obstacle. These include the body language of the handler, lack of understanding of the poles, anticipation of the next obstacle, and so on. However, often all of those issues have been ruled out and the dog is still popping out. Sometimes the dog is even looking up at the handler as if to say, 'Did I do that good, Mom? Where do we go now?' The dog obviously believes its performance of the poles was completed and was correct.
This popping out happens typically when the dog is two poles from the end,
and most often happens when the handler is on the dog’s left although it’s also
possible with the handler on the right. It appears as though the dogs do not
see the last two poles easily.
It is very common in dogs that have been training for just a short while. It is also more likely to occur if the handler is even with, or behind, the dog . When the handler is ahead of the dog, or on the right, the last two poles are more obvious.
However, the problem can still occur regardless of the handler’s positioning. The following solutions are geared toward helping the dog be aware of the last two poles.
Handler positioning ahead of the dog helps. I usually position myself one pole ahead of the dog, and close to the dog, so that it can see the 11th pole and me.
• I teach the dog to accept a hand signal that redirects the dog back into the poles at pole 11 and 12. Being able to get the dog’s focus down and on the poles themselves helps (away from the handler’s face).
• I teach the dog an Easy command (that is, slow down and be careful) away from the equipment and then I use it about pole 9 to help the dog realize he should no longer bounce through the poles with muscle memory— instead, he should think about what’s coming up.
• Handler motion using a path that converges toward the dog while in the poles may help this problem as well.
I find that beginner dogs don’t usually have the problem because they are thinking very hard about the poles. Experienced dogs seem to learn to tune out the handler and look ahead for those last two poles. It is the dogs somewhere in between, those that think, 'Hey, I’ve got it!' and indeed, might just now be discovering their rhythm and speed; those are the ones most likely to have the problem. Most work through it with help.
However, I have seen cases where I think a similar situation exists in experienced dogs. Often, if you place an obstacle or an object near the end of the weaves, the dog will pop out. I don’t think it is necessarily the temptation of the obstacle. I think it is the proximity of the object. If you place a wall or a ring barrier or something similar at the end of the poles, often even experienced dogs will pop out. I believe the wall becomes overwhelming in their field of vision, and what they see as they near the end of the poles is the obstruction approaching, not the last two weave poles.
A similar situation arises if the poles are leaning the wrong way. The dog just does not even see the pole.
RULES OF CANINE LEARNING
1. Normal dogs can learn at any age up to the time of their mental capacities start to deteriorate in old age
2. They learn best through patience and with suitable rewards. Rewards must be given with or within less than a second of the desired response from the dog
3. Intermittent rewarding of desired activity produces behaviour that is more resistant to extinction
4. The value of the reward should be appropriate for the desired behaviour. Dogs value rewards in different ways. Find out what is most valuable to your dog and use the rewards appropriately.
5. Learning should be enjoyable. Spend ten minutes two or three times each day. Sessions should be separated by several hours. Tired dogs do not learn easily. Mental activity is more tiring to the dog than physical activity.
6. Learning should take place in a quiet environment. Once the correct responses have been made in that environment you can move to more stimulating environments and repeat the process.
7. Every dog should be trained to come, sit, stay, down and down stay in that order. If a dog fails at any level, do not punish but simply go back to the previous level. Always finish training sessions on a positive note.
8. Only use your dog’s name to get his attention. Use one word commands in training.
9. Once your dog has learned commands from one person have him learn the same commands from other members of the household. In this way he learns that in a dominance hierarchy, he is beneath all the humans in the pack.
10. Punishment can be counterproductive. Use it with care. Natural punishments using your voice and stare however can be effective.
TEACHING COMMANDS
In his mind, your dog
should always look upon you as the alpha dog, the leader of the pack. Remember,
do not let your democratic ideals get in the way of proper training. These are
not party tricks you will be teaching. They are the basis for a successful and
satisfying relationship with any dog and once trained, he will be as happy and
contented to obey your commands as you will be proud of his willingness to do
so.
Training can begin as soon as you acquire your pup, as early as seven or eight weeks of age. Get him used to wearing a collar, a flat or round leather one is often best. Over the next several weeks you will be teaching your dog to obey several commands, but can use the same simple word to release him from his commands. The simplest release word to teach is “OK”. And of course, the best negative word is “NO”.
Dogs should be taught both verbal and visual commands at the same time. Never “ask” your dog to do something. Don’t issue requests with question mark endings. Always use commands that are given fairly and with confidence.
SIT
1. Start training on the first day you have your pup
2. Let him sniff his food in his bowl. Each time he is fed, hold his bowl above his head in such a way that he is most likely to sid down to keep his eyes on it. Say “SIT” while he does so.
3. If he doesn’t sit on his own, use your hand and gently push his rump down.
4. Reward him for sitting by giving him his meal.
The command to “SIT” should not always be coupled with a food reward. Carry out the same simple training three or four times daily, where there are no distractions, by offering praise as his reward.
1. Go to a quiet area and hold a toy or simply snap your fingers above your pup’s head while at the same time commanding him to “SIT”.
2. When he does so calmly, reward him with praise. Do not wind him up with excitement. If he is too excited you will lose his attention.
3. Release him from his “SIT” position by saying OK and always finish off a training session with praise and activity.
4. Once he has learned to “SIT” in quiet surroundings, move to different areas including from indoors to outdoors, so that he learns to obey command in different situations.
STAY
Once more start training indoors in a quiet place where there are no distractions. You can assure yourself that your pup is more likely to obey if he wears his collar and lead. In that way you retain control over him. Remember, he will not have the foggiest idea of what “STAY” means when you first use the command. Never discipline him during training for disobeying. Simply go back to the previous stage and repeat the exercise.
1. Crouch down and tell your pup to “SIT” and when he does, then tell him to “STAY”.
2. Use a flat tone of voice and while issuing your command, turn the pakm of your hand towards your pup and swing it towards him until it is almost touching his nose.
3. Stand up keeping the palm of your hand near his nose then draw back while maintaining your hand’s visual impact.
4. After a few seconds release him from his “STAY” by saying OK.
Needless to say he will not obey at first because he does not know what you are trying to do. Do not get angry or annoyed with him, and do not think he is stupid either. He is just starting to learn. Firmly but patiently say NO when he moves, walk him back, tell him to “SIT” and repeat the steps above.
He might also find it difficultto understand that you simply want him to “SIT” and might lie down instead. This might please you but if you let him do so, you are teaching him a faulty command. He should only sit when you command him to “SIT”. If he lies down do the following.
1. Tell him “NO” when he lies down and using, slight tension on his lead this time repeat the commands to “SIT” and “STAY”
2. If he breaks your command by lying down, be patient and repeat the series once more.
3. If he is obviously flagging, remember to always finish training on a positive note and simply finish off with a command you know he will obey, “SIT”
4. Once he will “SIT” and “STAY” on command with your standing near him, gradually begin to get farther away from him until he is willing to obey when you are standing at the farthest end of his lead. Always use the lead during training. That way you can be assured of having your dog under your ultimate control.
5. As he comes to understand the meaning of the word “STAY”, lengthen the the time he will stay but do so erratically. Command him to “STAY” for a minute, for 30 seconds, 2 minutes. Be unpredictable on the duration of the command.
6. Once he is well trained in a quiet setting, move to a more stimulating environment such as the garden or the street.
7. If he backslides in his training, return to the previous success level and always finish training on a positive note.
COME
All pups will willingly come to their owners, but just because they will do so as pups does not mean they will as adults. Training should start as soon as your new pup arrives in your home, but must be reinforced, especially as dogs mature.
1. Put your pup down. Move a few metres away from him then wave your arms and call him by name saying “Rover Come”. He will almost instinctively do so.
2. Reward him with affection or even a food reward such as a tasty tit bit.
3. Continue to train this way, using the lead if needed, until he reliably comes to you each time he is called.
4. Once he is well trained in a quiet environment, move into a more stimulating one outdoors and repeat the same series of commands but using his lead so that there is no possibility of disobeying.
5. Once he fluently obeys your command to “COME” to his name while he is at the end of his lead, graduate to the same command without the safety of the lead.
6. Never train your pup to “Come” to command or even after training call him this way if it is for something he dislikes, like discipline or a bath.
7. Let me repeat this rule because it is so important. NEVER CALL YOUR DOG TO COME TO PUNISH HIM. If punishment is due, go to him rather than call him to you.